<p>Kenya&rsquo;s coast is a 500-kilometre run of sand, Swahili towns and coral, and most visitors see about 20% of it. Here is how to spend a week well.</p><h2>Two bases, not one</h2><p>Do not stay the whole week in one place. The north coast (Nyali, Bamburi, Watamu) and the south coast (Diani, Shimba, Msambweni) feel nothing alike. Three nights north and four south gives you both, and the Likoni ferry crossing between them is part of the trip.</p><h2>What to do in the north</h2><p>Fort Jesus, in the early morning before the heat. The dhow at Nyali, in the late afternoon. A full day at Tsavo East, four hours each way, which people underestimate and then enjoy. Mombasa Old Town on foot, specifically the carved doors on Mbaraki Street.</p><h2>What to do in the south</h2><p>The Kaya Forest at Diani, on foot with a guide, and the Kamba Bay dolphins in a boat. Kilifi, if you have a car and a day. The Shimba Hills if you have a 4x4 and want elephants at close quarters.</p><h2>When to go</h2><p>June to October and December to March for the dry seasons. The short rains in November are green, quiet and cheap. The long rains from April to May will close some roads inland and are not the time for the Tsavo run.</p>